Archery Equipment Pro » General

Improve Your Accuracy

Bow — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 22:46:36 +0000

Here are some great tips to improve and maintain your accuracy when shooting your bow. One of the issues he talks about is putting your nose on the string . . . I don't want my nose there because in the winter, mine has the tendency to run.

Whats IS The Best Archery Bow?

Bow — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 13:48:59 +0000

What is the best bow for power and accuracy? Should you go with a compound bow or something more traditional? These questions rage around the world of archery and the opinions you receive will be as varied as the people you ask.

The type bow you get is often based on personal choice rather than the amount of power you'll have. But as one gentleman put it, if you're not accurate, it doesn't matter what bow you shoot. You'll just be powerfully hitting things you're not aiming at.

But with that said, if you're looking for raw power, you can't beat a compound bow. The sheer mechanics of the bow itself dictate that fact. And while it's a valid argument that a 45 to 55lb recurve bow will take down anything you might want to hunt and anything that delivers more is simply a waste of energy, the compound bow does delivers more power.

Which brings us to accuracy. While a compound bow is powerful, it's not called compound for nothing. Not only does the compound bow 'compound' the power of the draw, it also 'compounds' any flaw in form made by the archer. In order to have the consistent accuracy you'll need to be proficient, you'll have to correct any problems with form you may have or once again you'll be powerfully hitting things you're not aiming at.

There are a number of great compound bows on the market, and once again, if you interviewed a hundred different compound bow users, you'd get that many opinions on the best one. But the top four seem to be BowTech, Mathews, Hoyt and Bear.

As I've said before, opinions on this issue vary wildly, so feel free to leave a comment and your choice for the best archery bow.

I Don’t Want A Compound Bow – But What Else Is There?

Bow — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 16:09:26 +0000

Ready to purchase your first bow? Great, but lots of people don't want a compound bow. What are your other choices. Well you're in luck, as it happens you have lots of choices. But my first choice would be a recurve bow.

The first thing I would tell you to do is to find a local archery range. Go there and observe and ask questions. Most archers will let you handle there bows if you ask first and are usually enthusiastic about their bows or about talking about their bow and will be happy to give you benefit of their knowledge.

Second, I would suggest you stick with a lower poundage bow. Most people don't normally use the muscles used in archery unless they are a rower or a rock climber. If you get a bow with too high a poundage, you'll most likely develop some very bad habits to compensate.

Better to start with a low poundage bow and gradually work your way up, so as not to pick up habits you'll have to break later. Besides, most people start out shooting at targets to learn. By the time you have the accuracy you need for hunting, you'll be ready for a higher poundage bow.

Now with that in mind, I'd also suggest you get the take down recurve. The one piece is nice to look at, but the take down offers you the best in terms of value. A take down allows you to adjust the limb weight.

And with a take down you can buy the riser and get lower poundage limbs first. Then once you get stronger and develop a good solid form, you can simply buy other limbs later on without having to spend more money on the riser.

Do You Need a Stabilizer for Your Bow?

Bow — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 16:31:17 +0000

Whether or not to use a stabilizer on your bow is really a personal decision. There are many very proficient archers who never use a stablilizer. However, there are many fierce competitors and well known hunters who do.

They were designed for a purpose (to give more balance to the bow and to diminish the vibration with each shot) and could, perhaps help to improve your over all performance. If money allows, I suppose the prudent course would be to try one and see if it is of benefit to you.

The length of the stabilizer is mostly personal preference as well. But remember, the longer they are, the heavier they are - usually. But with that said, you'll see stabilizers weighing just ounces or several pounds - of every length. Go for the lightest weight stabilizer you can afford.

The length of the stabilizer should really be based on the type of shooting you will be doing. For instance, a bow used for hunting should have only a short stabilizer (if you use one at all). Considering the time you will spend in the woods or around trees and bushes which could snag your stablilizer, choose what is easier on you. However, if your bow is used for target shooting or in competition, you would benefits from a long stabilizer (better balance).

So the bottom line is, use a stabilizer if you wish. It was designed to improve your experience with your bow. You must decided if it is a benefit for you or not. And the only way you're going to be able to do that is to try one for yourself.

What to Look For When Purchasing Your First Bow

Bow — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 02:26:07 +0000

So you gave it a try and you were immediately hooked. You're ready to take the plunge and get a bow and some arrows but you don't begin to know where to start looking or what to look for.

Well you're not alone. At least you know enough to ask for help rather than spending a lot of money on a bow that's all wrong for you.

Before you go any further you're going to need to find out the draw length and pounds of pull you need for your bow. Calculate your draw length by measuring the span of your arms, from tip of the fingers of one outstretched arm to the tip of the fingers of the other outstretched arm. Then divide that number by 2 ½. This will give you the approximate draw length you'll be looking for.

The approximate pounds of pull (strength needed to draw back the string on your bow) is to calculate using your weight. For women and children, the draw weight would be approximately 35% of your body weight – and for older boys and men, the draw weight would be approximately 40% of your body weight.

If you don't already know the type bow you're interested in shooting, I would first recommend going to a local range that has equipment you can use or rent in order to see the different equipment and get some ideas of what you like. The bow you choose will depend on budget(as in money), what it will be used for, and the time you'll have to spend shooting.

Once you've made up your mind about which bow suits you best, you'll be better equipped to make an informed decision. More expensive is not always better. Most of all you want a bow that is comfortable to you and serves your needs.

As for proficiency with the bow, a compound bow is probably the easiest to learn, followed by the recurve. And the traditional bow is harder to master by far than the other two.

How to Add a Knocking Point to the String of Your Bow

Bow — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 20:02:06 +0000

Don't you love that pride of ownership you get with a new bow. But there are so many accessories and little additions you need to make to make that bow uniquely yours. One of those little additions is adding nocking points.

We add nocking points because we want to have the arrow as perpendicular to the string as possible. This ensures the straightest flight and most efficient use of your bow’s energy - improving both accuracy and range. Adding a nocking point indicator on your bowstring is the single easiest thing you can do to improve your precision.

A nocking point can be marked by a little clip or something as simple as dental floss (many like nocks made from dental floss much more than the pre-fabricated clips). The purpose is to make sure you nock your arrow at a fixed location, ensuring consistency. But it’s important to locate the nock correctly.

To begin, find a point on the string that is exactly perpendicular to the top of the arrow rest or shelf. A bowsquare is a tool designed specifically for this task and clips to the string to make it easier. (If you purchase a nocking point kit, you'll receive a bowsquare, nocking pliers and the instructions to place nocking points on your bow string.) Once you’ve found that point, move up the string 1/8” and place your first mark. This is where the bottom of the arrow should line up when nocked.

Now, move up the string again, the width of the nock on your arrows (Some arrows have a nock the same width of the arrow shaft and others have a slightly more narrow nock than the shaft, you need to measure to be sure.), and add an other mark there.

This is the point where your want to add your nock. If you are using clips, clamp the clip here, using using nocking point pliers. If you are using dental floss, tie a few clove hitches around the string at the point you would have added the clip. Just enough to keep the arrow from sliding any higher on the string when nocked. Tie off a with a few more clove hitches and then finish off the nock with a few drops of super glue or epoxy.

Now, to use the nocking point indicator, simply nock your arrow to the string beneath the nocking point, and then slide the arrow up the string until it fits snugly against it.

Never Dry Fire Your Bow

Bow — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 19:22:18 +0000

First we need to understand what dry firing a bow is. Dry firing a bow is the act of shooting a bow with no arrow in it. And while this may seem rather innocuous, it can be quite harmful to your bow.

And it can happen to beginners and experts alike - if for no other reason than a guest or relative draws the string and lets loose. After all, to their way of thinking - there is no arrow, so what could it hurt, right? Well as it happens there can end up being quite a bit of damage and it can be quite costly to the bow owner.

But it can happen - to anyone. But why is this so harmful to your bow? The energy that would normally be transferred to the arrow as you fire it has no where to go when there is no arrow. So, it is disbursed through the string and limbs. And when this happens, there are any number of scenarios which can happen. The string could break, or worse still, any number of different parts of your bow could crack or shatter.

But it could appear there is no damage whatsoever when in fact there are cracks and splinters not visible immediately. These flaws may go undetected until you use the bow again. So before using the bow, you should get a magnifying glass and examine the bow under a bright light.

Check for cracks and splits and if any are visible, that piece should be replaced before the bow is used to avoid damaging any other previously undamaged parts. Next you should examine the string as well. Look for any badly frayed portions and/or cut strands - especially near the axles.

Once you have examined the bow and replaced any damaged limbs, string, etc., you need to draw your bow - with an arrow in it - and shoot it. Listen for any unusual noises and vibrations. If you hear or feel anything unusual, re-examine the bow and string - once again replacing any damaged parts you find.

If you are unable to find any damage but are feeling strange vibrations or hearing unusual noises, you will need to take your bow to a professional to have the bow examined. Often it is less expensive to simply get a new bow, rather than taking it to be examined professionally.

But if after shooting an arrow you feel no new vibrations or hear no new noises, and you have no discernible problems you can count yourself lucky and should be free to use the bow as usual.

Make Your Own Cheap Target for Bow Practice

Bow — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 15:48:28 +0000

Like many hobbies, archery can grow expensive and if you are simply wanting to put in a few hours of practice to improve your aim, making your own target can save your cash for something you really want or need.

You can't find a better target than bales of straw stacked two deep (depending on the pound bow you'll be using) for an inexpensive target. The initial outlay of cash will be the most expense you'll incur. Visit your local farmers coop or market to find your hay bales.

Then drop by your local Wal-mart, K-mart or grocery store and ask for some card board from the boxes they break down and get yourself a magic marker and you're almost ready.

Draw your preferred target - circles with a bulls eye or the likeness of your least favorite acquaintance or maybe your mother-in-law - and you're ready.

You can replace the cardboard as needed with no expense to you and the bales of hay should last for years if you go the extra step and get an inexpensive plastic tarp to put over the bales when you're not using them for practice.